Tale of the Tuxedo - Origins of Our House Style

The tuxedo, also known as a dinner jacket or smoking jacket, has its origins in 19th-century England, but its popularization and the term “tuxedo” itself are closely tied to American society.

The Origins of the Tuxedo

The smoking jacket became a fashionable and functional garment in 19th-century Britain, particularly among the upper class during the Victorian era. It was designed for post-dinner activities, offering a blend of style and practicality. Typically made from luxurious fabrics like velvet, brocade, or silk, the jacket was meant to resist ash stains and absorb less tobacco odor. Its shawl collars, turned-up cuffs, and wrap-around closure gave it a casual elegance that fit the era’s strict social protocols.

Meanwhile, the Prince of Wales, later King Edward VII, played a pivotal role in modern men’s fashion. In 1865, he commissioned a tail-less dinner jacket from his tailor, Henry Poole & Co., seeking a more comfortable alternative to the formal tailcoats of the time. This design, shorter and more relaxed but still made from traditional evening fabrics like black wool and silk, laid the groundwork for the modern tuxedo, breaking away from the rigid white tie dress code.

The tuxedo’s name originated from Tuxedo Park, a high-society enclave in New York. James Brown Potter, an American socialite, introduced the tail-less jacket to the U.S. after seeing it at a dinner hosted by the Prince of Wales. Potter had a similar jacket made by Henry Poole & Co. and wore it to an event at Tuxedo Park in 1886, where it made a strong impression. The jacket became associated with the park, and the term "tuxedo" soon entered American fashion.

Amalean's House Tuxedo Style

Our sense of formalwear has always one of subtlety and sophistication. Our recommendation would be to use a ribbed (grosgrain or ottoman) silk for the lapels, buttons, and trouser braid. This lends a hand in muting the overall tone of the garment. Typically silk satin is used in formalwear, but we believe its sheen takes away from the overall elegance of the jacket. 

For the cut of the tuxedo, we give a close fit in the waist, whilst ensuring that the overall silhouette remains smooth going down the hips. In the chest and arms, we always give plenty of allowance for movement. Broad shoulders and wide lapels are hallmarks of our house style. Our philosophy for jackets in general is to contour the body and allow room for movement. 

Similarly for trousers, we give plenty of fabric in the thigh going all the way down to the bottom to keep a clean drape; however, in the waist and hips, we keep the allowances closer to the body to retain a snug fit. 

For the selection of cloth we recommend choosing a barathea cloth with either a wool or a wool/mohair blend. However, you can't go wrong with choosing a pure twill-weave wool either. Both lend a hand in giving a dark and rich look when paired with ribbed silk. 

A closer look at the grosgrain lapels and buttons of our house tuxedo

Summary

The tuxedo is a fascinating garment with roots in both British aristocracy and American high society. From the protective function of the smoking jacket to the Prince of Wales’s daring fashion choices, and finally to its adoption at Tuxedo Park, the tuxedo reflects changing social norms, especially around formality and comfort in men's fashion. What started as a relaxed alternative to the tailcoat has become a timeless symbol of elegance and sophistication across the globe.

Our take on the timeless tuxedo is one of quiet luxury and subtle sophistication. Let the silhouette be your introduction when ordering a martini - shaken or stirred.